I Love You More Than Food

Author: Caroline

Cranberry Crumble Cake (Cranberry Coffee Cake)

I still have a load of cranberries in my fridge, anyone have ideas besides the obvious?

For this cake I adjusted a recipe from Ina Garten (Barefoot Contessa).

2 parts: topping & cake

For the streusel topping:
1/4 C white sugar
1/3 C light brown sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/8 tsp ground nutmeg
dash cloves
1 stick butter, melted, warm
1 1/3 C all-purpose flour

Combine the spices and sugars, add the melted butter, mix. Add the flour, mix well, set aside.

For the cake:
6 T unsalted butter at room temp (3/4 stick)
3/4 C granulated sugar (or just scant)
2 large eggs, room temperature
1 tsp vanilla extract
zest of one large orange
2/3 C sour cream
1 1/4 C all-purpose flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp kosher salt
1 C cranberries

Preheat oven to 350, butter & flour a 9 inch round, or make muffins, loafs, etc.

Cream butter & sugar with electric mixer or hand mixer until fluffy and creamy. Reduce speed to low and add eggs 1 at a time, then add vanilla, zest, sour cream. Sift in the flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt, until just combined. Fold in the washed cranberries whole or halved (I used whole).

I used a bit less cranberries but wish I’d used more, so the recipe reflects the best amount. I’d also place some cranberries on top of the batter once in the cake pan, as most made their way to the bottom that were mixed in.

On top of the batter and cranberries placed on top of it, crumble the streusel topping. Bake 40-50 minutes until skewer comes out clean. Be careful not to overbake as this WILL dry out significantly.

December 14, 2008
Mexican Pho (A variation on Mexican Tortilla Soup)

1 batch chicken stock (half full soup pot)
1-2 C shredded chicken meat (optional)
3 jalepeno peppers (+1 pair gloves or plastic bags for your hands!), finely diced
1 small yellow onion, diced
1 C frozen or fresh corn
4 medium ripe tomatoes, diced large
1 bunch cilantro, washed and rough chopped
4-5 scallions (green onions), sliced finely into rings
1-2 avocados, sliced and peeled
1 lime, sliced

Sautee onions in olive oil, salt, pepper. Add jalepenos. Let cook until translucent and jalepenos soften. Add corn and slightly brown. Add the tomatoes and allow to cook about 30 seconds, then add the stock and chicken meat if using. Bring to simmer, hold for 5 minutes, and serve.

Serve with scallions, cilantro, avocado slices, and lime either already in bowl or for self service. Great for a cold!

Optional: fry corn tortilla strips in canola oil and place on top or if you have some white bread or baguette, toast it, add cheddar and put it under the broiler.

December 12, 2008
Butternut Squash Soup

3 lbs butternut squash, peeled & cubed (alternatively halved, seeded, and roasted face down with olive oil)
1 qt chicken or vegetable stock
2-3 C milk
1 tsp fresh grated nutmeg
1 small onion, diced
1/2 C heavy cream
salt & pepper
1/2 stick butter

Melt the butter in a large soup pot, add onions, salt, pepper & sautee until translucent. Add butternut squash and half the stock, cover and simmer until softened. If roasting the squash, skip this step and simply add the onions to the squash meat in a food processor.

Once softened, in batches if necessary, puree the squash with the vegetable stock and add more stock if needed. Add pack to the soup pot and bring to a simmer, adding salt & pepper. Add the nutmeg, milk, and cream, bringing to a loose, smooth consistency.

Serve with buttered, toasted baguette.

Will keep well frozen.

December 12, 2008
Spiced Persimmon Almond Bread

Two weeks ago my produce shipment included several Fuyu persimmons (shorter, squattier not acorn shaped, more suitied to raw eating). Last weekend I noticed a few had turned pretty ripe, jelly like, and while I don’t enjoy slicing them and serving them in salads and other items in that state, it is great for baking.

I took cue from Joy the Baker and adapted her recipe.

1 3/4 C sifted flour
1 tsp salt
1 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1 C + 2 T sugar
1/2 C melted butter cooled to room temperature
2 eggs room temperature, lightly beaten
1/2 C scant cognac, bourbon, or whiskey
1 C persimmon puree (~4 Fuyu persimmons, overly ripe, skinned and pulp pureed in a food processor)
1 C unsalted, lightly roasted almonds, chopped into meal and chunks (food processor)
1 C raisins or diced dried fruits + 1 tsp baking soda

Add baking soda to diced dried fruits/raisins and add 1 C boiling water. Set aside to hydrate.

Preheat oven to 350. Butter a loaf pan generously and dust with flour.

Sift dry ingredients together, make a well in the center. Stir in butter, eggs, liquor, persimmon puree, almonds and finally the drained raisins or fruit.

Bake 1 hour, until skewer or toothpick inserted to middle comes out clean or with dried crumbs.

Would be great served with room-temperature cream cheese or creme fraiche when warm.

December 12, 2008
Roasted Air Chilled Chicken & Tomatoes

Because it’s soup season, I’ve taken to roasting whole chickens (generally the organic, air-chilled, fresh variety). One challenge is that I actually don’t own a proper roasting pan (as an aside, I like to serve in the dishes I cook in whenever possible, and an au gratin pan will work just fine thankyouverymuch), and have been borrowing frequently from our neighbors–so we’ll see for how long I can keep this up.

To wash or not to wash? Studies and logic say washing the chicken will only spread the germs via water around your kitchen. You’re better off not washing it unless there is something clearly gross that should be swept away. I know–but your mother use to do it. Well, your mother didn’t have the internet, did she.

Cut the chicken in a few places: on either side of the leg joints, above the arms. Make sure the cavity is clear and you aren’t leaving a plastic bag of giblets in there (I tell my butcher to keep’em). You have a few options now, but generally the simplest thing is to stuff the cavity with 4-6 garlic cloves, half a washed lemon, and fresh herbs such as rosemary.

I also pull the skin apart from the meat along the breasts and anywhere I can get to so that it crisps up, and then stuff a few sprigs of rosemary or whatever herb of the day under there. I’d recommend parsley, thyme, sage, or rosemary.

In your roasting pan, rub the chicken well with olive oil and coat with sea salt (coarse, grey, flavorful if possible) and cracked pepper. Throw a few whole, small tomatoes alongside the chicken and coat in olive oil, salt & pepper. Add some garlic cloves on the outside there too, if you like.

Roast at 350 for 30 min-1hr depending on size of chicken. Leg should wiggle firmly when yanked and it’s done, and will have a nice color to the outside.

After you eat it or use the meat in soups, be sure to save the carcass in the freezer or use immediately to make some stock.

December 12, 2008
Ravioli Zucca (Butternut squash ravioli) & Garlic-Pepper Dino Kale

This is a typical dish from the north west of Italy, usually prepared with pumpkin but any winter squash will work well. I like to use butternut squash. It is typically fried after boiling, served in a brown-butter sage sauce. I call it typical and not traditional because it only came about around the 1800’s or so (well, same with Italian pasta in general), and there is argument between the French and Italians as to who came up with this dish. Some accredit inter-country marriages to the leaders of regions in Italy or vice versa to its spread, and admittedly some of the technique involved is typically French. I’m gonna vote Italian, though.

I used some of the butternut squash I had received in my bi-weekly Farm Fresh to You shipment as well as the dino kale that came this week from the Capay Valley. And in the name of honesty, I made this with my neighbor Marta a few days ago, had leftover filling, and made it again last night. She prepared some delicious roasted brussel sprouts for our meal.

For the Pasta:

1 small butternut squash, halved & seeded
1 portion fresh italian egg pasta (my recipe is here)
1/2 tsp ground sage, and/or several leaves fresh sage
amaretti cookies (a light, almond cookie that is about bite sized or as large as a golf ball, also from the north)
1/4 C walnuts
1/2 stick butter
olive oil
salt & pepper

Roast the squash with olive oil, salt, & pepper face down at 350 or 375 until tender and bright orange. Seperate the flesh from the skin and add to a food processor along with several amaretti (4, 5?), the ground sage if you’re choosing that option, salt, pepper, and walnuts. Reserve some amaretti. Puree until mostly smooth or no large chunks remain. You’ll be using this in small amounts to fill your ravioli, so it’s important it’s smooth and won’t tear the dough.

Roll out your dough after it has rested sufficiently. I would recommend an alteration to the recipe to include 1/2 size 00 semolina flour and 1/2 size 00 farina/white wheat flour. This will make the dough more elastic and forgiving and better suited to a stuffed pasta.

Making the dumplings: use your own method or ravioli tools, or follow the technique I used in these goat-cheese beet raviolis to make a different stuffed pasta shape (minimal dough waste in my opinion), or cut squares or circles to attach together. If you’re attaching two sheets of pasta together, I recommend using a touch of egg on your finger or at least a bit of water to help it adhere. Make sure to roll out only what you need as you can use it, or it will go dry and create problems when shaping the dumplings.

Toss your finished raviolis into boiling, salted water. Remove them with slotted spoon or gnocci paddle, and put them directly in a large sautee pan with your melted, medium high heat butter. It should sizzle.

Let the ravioli/tortelloni fry until bubbled and golden or browned at least on one side. Toss occasionally. If you choose to use fresh sage, you’ll want to fry the dry, cleaned sage in the butter before adding the ravioli. Serve and top with crushed amaretti.

For the Kale:

1 bunch dino kale (soft, bubbly dark green variety), washed, cores removed
2 cloves garlic, minced
1/2 red pepper, diced
olive oil

In a large sautee pan, cook the garlic & pepper at medium heat in olive oil until softened. Add the kale and continue to cook until bright green and more tender to your liking.

December 12, 2008
I do love you more than food! A birthday dinner

For his birthday, this evening I made:
– filet mignon with port reduction
– garlic-orange rainbow chard
– israeli couscous with cinnamon & laurel leaf

There is a love-hate relationship with Andronico’s markets that I’m sure many of you in the SF bay area can relate to. They have beautiful meat. They have beautiful almost everything, and everything costs 3x more than similar quality items that you can’t find all in one place. Truly an American dilemma of convenience.

At any rate, this evening we did become extremely lucky in that they had the most beautiful filets I have probably ever come across in an all-inclusive grocery.

I heated my oven to 350 and got to work.

I seasoned them with salt & pepper, and threw them in a searing hot pan just large enough for them to sit evenly on the bottom and with high enough sides to keep some heat in, in a touch of butter. I let them mingle there for quite a while until they had developed a beautiful medium to dark brown crust. I flipped them, let them mingle a few minutes longer, and tossed them in the oven. At the same time, I tossed some butter in the freezer to have it extra cold for the reduction sauce.

Meanwhile, I had been cooking and prepping ahead and during the process. I cleaned and chopped the rainbow chard, and started sauteeing the cores. I started the couscous.

Israeli couscous is a larger variety of the popular mediterrenean couscous and lends itself to being a bit more chewy and holding sauce. I adapted a Bon Apetit recipe I found on epicurious.com, using different heat settings, different nuts, and different stock (high until the vegetable stock was added, I cut the recipe into 1/3rd, and used roasted, unsalted almonds). I’d make this a thousand times again.

The steak turned out a lot better than I anticipated. Once out of the oven, set the steaks aside and turn on the heat at the range to keep the temp up. I threw in minced onions and let them turn translucent and medium high heat. Cranked it to high and added 1/2-2/3 C ruby port, reducing. When mostly there, turned the heat off and added 1-2 T very cold butter, stirring quickly, and serving immediately.

It was a hit.

December 10, 2008
Orange Spiced Sweet Potato Bisque

2 lb sweet potatoes/yams
1 qt vegetable or chicken stock
1 qt milk (not skim; or more stock and some heavy cream)
1 small onion
1 large orange
1 stick cinnamon
1 T fresh grated orÂ 1/2 tsp. ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg (preferably fresh)
1/2 stick butter
salt & pepper

You will need a food processor.

In a large soup or stock pot, melt the butter and add the onion diced finely. When near translucent, add the peeled & chopped (coursely, about the size of brussel sprouts) potatoes, add salt & pepper. Allow to brighten in the butter; when begins to be dry, add enough stock to almost cover, and add the spices. Add lid and reduce heat to just above low. Let them simmer and steam for about 20 minutes, checking to make sure they have enough liquid and adding some water or stock in the process. Halfway through, add the zest and juice of the orange.

Once brightened and easy to smash with a wooden spoon, turn off heat, remove cinnamon stick, and add to food processor, pureeing. Add back to the pan and begin adjusting consistency and strongness of flavor with the milk and stock. The bisque should be lighter and runny but retain its color. If it’s too thick you’ll be way too full and it will seem too sweet. If it’s too sweet and you’re using fresh ginger, feel free to add a bit more as well as more milk (NOT stock as milk will mellow the flavor better than the stock).

Will store well in the freezer or fridge for some time. Serve with Creme Fraiche and chives or a slice of fresh or candied orange & a crack of pepper.

November 30, 2008
Fresh Cranberry Relish

Good on a variety of meats and dishes, this relish gave purpose to the fresh cranberries I received in my produce shipment. This recipe requires a food processor.

2-3 C fresh washed cranberries
1 large orange with good skin
1/4 C candied ginger
Sugar to taste

Wash and chop the orange into small segments as if to garnish a drink. Remove any obvious pith (white membrane) without separating the fruit from the peel. Combine in a food processor and chop until reached the consistency of relish.

Sliver or mince the ginger and mix it in. Add sugar to taste.

Can be preserved for some time in a sterilized container in the refrigerator.

November 30, 2008
Capay Leek & Potato Soup (& a lesson on leek etiquette)

[donotprint]

I drove my Capay Farm Leeks back up the coast to Mendocino for Thanksgiving and found myself cleaning & chopping them to make a leek & potato soup to feed all of us cooks before the main event–kind of like the “family meal” in a restaurant.

On cleaning leeks & picking leeks: A good leak is not slimy, is firm, and has healthy, firm looking leaves. They will have minimal wear and tear at the tips of the greens but will not be cut excessively short already.

Leeks are particularly sandy because of the way in which they grow. The best way to clean them is to cut the tattered or overly wilted greens off the top, slice them in half lengthwise so all the layers are accessible, and put them in a large bowl of water. Go through the outer layers with particular care and use your fingers to brush away or agitate any dirt/sand. Give them a good wiggle in the water and be sure to change the water frequently especially if your bowl is smaller.[/donotprint]

Leek & Potato Soup Recipe

3-4 medium leeks or equivalent
1 small yellow onion or half a large one
1 stick butter
1 qt chicken or vegetable stock (organic box of it or your own)
1 qt 2% or 1% milk
2 russet or red skin potatoes
salt & pepper

In a large sautee pan or cast iron skillet add half the butter at medium high heat.

Chop your leeks in half circles as thin as is reasonable to be consistent. Use the firmer part of the greens as well if in good condition. Add to the warmed butter once it has stopped bubbling. Add salt & pepper. After a few minutes, reduce heat to medium or medium low. Stir occasionally the whole time to prevent too much coloring or carmelization in one place.

While the leeks are cooking, peel your potatoes and chop them into cubes; perhaps a bit smaller than a lego. Dice the onion finely.

To a large soup pot, add the other stick of butter.Â Add the onion to the butter at medium heat. Once mostly translucent, add the potatoes. Let the potatoes gain some color with minimal sticking to the bottom of the pan and without smashing them into mashed potatoes. Add more butter if necessary to accomplish this. Reduce to medium low heat once colored a bit, let cook mostly through. Add the leeks to the soup pan, and add half the milk or enough to cover the leeks & potatoes.

Bring to a simmer and let soften some more. Add most of the stock, reserving some in order to adjust the consistency. Add most of the rest of the milk, also reserving some. Check the salt & pepper, adjust and check and adjust consistency. Once ready, serve or turn off heat and reheat later–do not leave simmering or you’ll have mashed potatoes with leeks.

November 30, 2008