I Love You More Than Food

Category: seafood

  • Mussels & Clams Pastis

    Mussels & Clams Pastis

    mussels pastis

    BiRite Market opened up a location a short bike ride from my house, and I’ve made it an excuse to shop in smaller quantities and incorporate the exercise of going to the store as an excuse to make even fresher meals. These beautiful PEI mussels were filled to the edge of their shells with meat, the freshest I’ve seen in a long while and exceptionally tender.

    When shopping for shellfish, always make sure your shells are not broken (throw the mussel out if it is!), that they close when you agitate them, are free of debris on the outside (scrub them with cold water), and that you toss any that don’t open after cooking (though a small crack open is perfectly fine!).

    In case you have not cleaned or bought bivalves before, here’s what I do to clean them up and inspect them:

    How to Clean Mussels and Clams

    1) Bring them home immediately, and if you aren’t using them in the next hour, open up their bag and put them in the refrigerator so they can breathe, or set them on ice and leave them out, as they do in the store. Always buy them the same day you intend to cook them.

    2) 30 minutes to 1 hour before cooking, place them in very cold fresh water and leave them unagitated for at least 10 minutes. They will relax, open up, and use the fresh water, thus rinsing out any sediment, sand, etc from the inside of their shells.

    3) Before removing them from the water, inspect each mussel or clam for any missing chunks, major cracks, etc. If it has an imperfection, throw it out. If it does not close when you handle it, throw it out. Even when buying from a quality fishmonger, you’ll likely have 1-2 that get thrown out before cooking.

    4) Next, if especially dirty, replace the cleaning water and recover in very cold water. Remove any “beards” or seaweed looking bits that are hanging out the side of the mussels shells. Do this with a quick jerking action down towards the thickest side of the mussel. It will take a little effort, especially if they are very fresh. Strain them and cook them within 20 minutes or so!

    Mussels & Clams Pastis Recipe

    Serves 2

    1.5-2lb of mussels and clams
    2 T olive oil
    1 large shallot, chopped finely
    2 cloves garlic, minced
    1/2 C white wine
    1 C Pernod or other anise liquor
    2 T fresh parsley, roughly chopped
    salt & pepper

    In a large pan that will fit all of the mussels and clams, add the olive oil and heat to medium. Add the garlic and shallot, cooking until nearly translucent or beginning to be translucent, but not caramelized or browned. Add some salt, the white wine and pernod, and reduce slightly, raising heat immediately to high or medium high.

    Add the mussels and/or clams and cover, cooking about 2 minutes before checking. Cover again if they are not all or mostly opened. When all are opened, remove lid and stir well, adding fresh cracked pepper. Remove the mussels and clams and set aside in a warm spot or in a heated bowl (or place into heated individual serving bowls). Change heat to high and reduce liquid by 1/2, then add the parsley and serve over the mussels and clams.

    Serve with french fries or bread with butter.

  • Thanksgiving: Cooking Live Crab with Fennel and Celery Salad

    Thanksgiving: Cooking Live Crab with Fennel and Celery Salad

    Stack of Steamed Fresh Live Crabs

    We had planned to visit Captain Barry’s Fresh to pick up some crab on Thanksgiving morning as a project and tasty dinner, but also to have a bit of Thanksgiving fare with the crew; there had been an accident the night before and while Thanksgiving was cancelled, we hope all will be well soon. They were still selling crab this morning, so we decided it would be a great, light departure from the gut-stuffing realities of turkey day. We loaded up the dog and headed down to the dock.

    butter cubes

    Red Dutch Cast Iron Enamel Sautee Pan with Melting Butter

    We brought home three lively critters, about 2 lbs each, and got our pots boiling. Being a total sissy, I didn’t want to kill and clean them raw, so we dunked them right into the boiling water for 15 minutes each (since they were so large). Afterwards, I cleaned them using this method, and stacked them up on our table with some melted butter, a fresh fennel-celery salad, and a bottle of champagne.

    Fennel and Celery Salad

    Fresh Fennel and Celery Salad Recipe

    Serves 2-4

    1 small or 1/2 large head fennel, sliced thinly on a mandolin
    2-3 stalks celery, sliced thinly on a mandolin
    juice of 1/2 lemon
    2 tsp olive oil
    salt & pepper

    Mix all ingredients together and serve. This holds up very well over night, but is best dressed freshly for maximum crunch.

     

    Stack of Fresh Cleaned Dungeness Crab Legs

    How to Cook Live Crab

    Prepare large pots of boiling water; when boiling, add the live crab. Cover most of the way and cook for 15 minutes. Remove the crab and let it cool a bit, then use this crab cleaning method to prepare for the table. Serve with drawn butter; use a cast iron based pan (in my case, a vintage dutch enameled pan) to keep the butter warm for longer, tableside.

  • A Whole Roasted Trout Recipe

    A Whole Roasted Trout Recipe

     

    Whole Roasted Trout from McFarland Farms

    A few weeks ago, Peter served up a delicious, and, to my shock, farmed whole trout. He stuffed it with prosciutto and vegetables, preceded it with a baby beet salad with seasoned ricotta, and a great meal was had by all. This afternoon I braved the Thanksgiving crowds and visited Bi-Rite to get myself a trout and try it out myself.

    McFarland Farms Whole Roasted Trout Meat

    Whole Roasted Trout Stuffed with Prosciutto & Fennel Recipe

    Serves 3-4

    1 whole trout, 1.5-2 lbs (this is a rainbow trout)
    4 pieces freshly sliced prosciutto di parma
    1/2 head fennel, sliced thinly and sauteed until nearly caramelized in butter
    zest of 1/2 lemon
    salt

    Ensure the trout is gutted fully and clean; season with salt inside and line the cavity with the prosciutto slices. Toss the cooked fennel with the lemon zest; between the sides of flesh, stuff the fennel into the fish. If you have twine or something edible to tie the fish together, do so now. Roast at 400 degrees for 15-25 minutes depending on the weight of your fish, on a foil lined pan, without cover.

    When serving, gently remove the skin from the top half of the fish and push the meat off the bones. When the spine is exposed, lift it up or turn the fish over to remove the rest of the meat. Remove the prosciutto sack and cut it into slices to serve along the fish.

  • Shrimp Stuffed Poblano Peppers with Tomato Red Pepper Sauce

    Shrimp Stuffed Poblano Peppers with Tomato Red Pepper Sauce

    A new favorite, this shrimp stuffed poblano peppers recipe can be prepared ahead and cooked on a weeknight, it’s healthy and chock-full of vegetables and lean protein. I clearly was lazy in peeling my peppers, but we didn’t mind a bit of charred skin here and there.

    [buymeapie-recipe id=’2′]Shrimp Stuffed Poblano Peppers with Tomato-Red Pepper Sauce Recipe
    Serves two for main course

    The Peppers & Filling
    4 poblano peppers, charred over a flame and peeled or cooked at 400 degrees for 15 minutes and peeled
    3/4 lb shrimp, peeled and chopped roughly
    2 cloves garlic, minced finely or mashed
    2 T fresh cilantro and/or basil, chopped
    1/4 red bell pepper, chopped finely
    1/2 tsp ground cumin
    3/4 tsp sea salt

    Combine all but the peppers in a bowl, and stuff the peppers with the mixture, closing them again as best you can. Bake in oven at 350 for 8-11 minutes, depending on size of the peppers. Shrimp will be completely white and pink when done.

    For the Tomato-Red Pepper Sauce
    1 large red bell pepper, roasted at 400 degrees, peeled, seeds removed and tossed into a blender
    2 ripe, never refrigerated roma tomatoes or one small can peeled roma tomatoes or chopped tomatoes
    2 cloves garlic, chopped
    1 tsp chili flakes or equivilent
    4 small-medium shallots, chopped finely
    2 tsp coconut oil or other cooking oil

    In a sauce pan, warm the coconut oil and add the shallots and chili flakes, cooking until shallots begin to go limp. Add the garlic and chili flakes, followed immediately by the tomatoes–slice thinly the tomatoes and add to the pan, cooking at medium heat until they are falling apart, about 20 minutes. Add it all to the blender with the roasted pepper and puree. It will likely be thicker than soup; you can thin it with vegetable or chicken stock, or serve it thick under the cooked peppers.

  • Tilapia with Lemon Verbena Cream Sauce on Arugula & Potatoes

    Tilapia with Lemon Verbena Cream Sauce on Arugula & Potatoes

    tilapia with lemon verbena cream sauce

    new potatoes and arugula

    lemon verbena cream sauce

    I recently changed CSA’s from Farm Fresh to You (which I did for nearly 3 years) to Eatwell Farms–I’ve only received one shipment, but was 100% delighted with the first one which included strawberries, red and white spring onions, huge arugula, fava beans, lettuces, braising greens and best of all–fresh lemon verbena. Normally I don’t like my food to smell like bath products I use or my bath products to smell like food, but in this case, it was a new challenge–I’ve never cooked with the stuff. I almost decided to start making home made face products alla Lush cosmetics, but thought better of it and remembered my growling stomach.

    Recipe: Tilapia with Lemon Verbena Cream Sauce on Arugula & New Potatoes
    For Two

    2 filets tilapia*
    4-6 cups fresh arugula, chopped coarsly
    6 small new (red) potatoes, sliced in 1/2 inch chunks
    4 T creme fraiche
    2 C fresh lemon verbena leaves**
    1/2 small/medium yellow onion, diced
    1/2 C wine
    4 T olive oil
    2 T white wine vinegar
    4 T butter, divided
    salt & fresh cracked pepper

    For the sauce
    Combine the onion, wine, and a generous few cranks of pepper in a sauce pan, and cook until almost translucent at medium heat. In a blender or food processor, add the lemon verbena leaves, white wine vinegar, olive oil and the slightly cooled onion mixture. Blend very well until evenly textured. Set aside and let cool. Just before serving, add creme fraiche and blend briefly to incorporate. Can be made ahead and refrigerated for several days. Flavor will mellow, however, and is most fragrant at room temperature, but most creamy/thick cool.

    For the fish and potatoes
    Using half the butter (2T), heat a large skillet to high heat and fry the potatoes until golden. If using a cast iron, turn off the heat and add the arugula, stirring to wilt. If using other pan, reduce heat to low and stir until arugula is wilted. Set aside and keep warm.

    Meanwhile, heat another skillet with other 2T of butter, and lightly salt/pepper the tilapia filets. Once butter is at medium high heat, add filets, turning when mostly cooked.

    Serve fish on top of potatoes and arugula, topping at last moment with fresh sauce.

    Great with a dry white wine like pinot blanc or pinot grigio from the north of Italy (Alto Adige region).

    * You can substitute halibut, basa, or other mild fish of your choice.
    ** Fresh lemon verbena is not that easy to come by and dries out very quickly once picked. You can substitute cilantro, but it will produce a very different but equally delicious sauce.

  • Pan Seared Halibut on Asparagus Potato Hash

    Pan Seared Halibut on Asparagus Potato Hash

    pan seared halibut on asparagus potato hash

    pan seared halibut

    Pacific halibut, local asparagus, capay potatoes and leeks.

    Recipe: Pan Seared Halibut on Asparagus Potato Hash
    For One
    1/3 lb halibut filet, skinned
    8 spears asparagus, chopped in 1/2 inch segments
    1 leek, sliced finely
    1 small spring onion, diced, tender tops chopped and set aside
    2-4 T dry white wine
    3 T cooked farro or other grain (rice, etc– can omit as well)
    avocado oil or other mild oil

    In a 8 or 9 ” cast iron skillet (or other pan), heat 1-2 tsp oil at medium heat. Add the onion and leek, cooking until tired looking. Add the asparagus and cook 2-3 minutes until deeper green. Add white wine and cover loosely with a lid, steaming through. When asparagus is tender, remove lid and add farro and onion tops, cooking until hot. Place mixture into your serving bowl or plate.

    Bringing same pan to high heat, add a little more oil and fry the halibut on one side until golden. Flip, reduce heat to medium low, cover loosely with a lid and continue cooking a few more minutes until texture firms evenly and fish is cooked, about 3-5 minutes depending on filet thickness. Place on top of farro hash mixture and enjoy.

  • Spicy Scallops on Pasta with Fiddlehead Ferns and Mozzarella

    Spicy Scallops on Pasta with Fiddlehead Ferns and Mozzarella

    spicy scallops on pasta with fiddlehead ferns

    Weeknight Pasta with Spicy Scallops, Fiddlehead Ferns and Mozzarella
    For Two

    4-6 scallops
    2 oz dry spaghetti (I used whole wheat bionaturae spaghetti. I actually like the flavor of it.)
    1-2 oz fresh mozzarella, chopped into chunks
    1 medium leek, chopped in short thin strips, white & light green only
    4 oz fiddlehead ferns, cleaned and trimmed (can sub asparagus, tender wild greens, or chicories)
    1 C white wine
    1 T butter
    2 tsp chili flakes, divided
    salt & pepper

    Salt & pepper the scallops; sprinkle sparingly with chili flakes. Bring water to boil, and prep all ingredients.

    Begin cooking the pasta. Meanwhile, cook the leeks at medium low heat for 5-10 minutes until coloring. Add 1 tsp chili flakes and fiddlehead ferns. Cook 2 minutes at medium high heat. Add about 1/2 C white wine and cover loosely with a lid; reduce heat to medium.

    In a very hot pan (cast iron would work best), sear the scallops and turn only when browned at high heat. If sticking when turning over, do not force. Add 1/2 cup wine, wait a moment and wiggle them free to flip.

    Add the pasta to the fiddlehead and leek mixture, turning heat up to medium high. Add the mozzarella and toss quickly. Plate with the scallops on top.

  • Halibut Belly with Ramp Vegetable Hash

    Halibut Belly with Ramp Vegetable Hash

    [donotprint]halibut belly with ramps pancetta asparagus and farro

    I made a pilgrimage to Rainbow Grocery over the weekend and scored some fiddlehead ferns, raw chocolate and among other things ramps. I spent most of the day thinking up how I should use said ingredients, with ramps and fiddleheads being new to my kitchen–I searched around and figured out the jist of what I intend to do (fish with ramps), but made my way to the grocery to pick up some fish to top it all off.

    I was hunting for halibut cheeks, and while my fishmonger didn’t have any for me, he did offer up the halibut’s belly (he disappeared into a walk in fridge and came out with the collar of the fish, and proceeded to slice a beautiful filet off for me) and I did take 3 oz of it home for just $0.58. “Fish Scraps for Stock,” it was labeled. Thanks, fishmonger!

    halibut belly cooking

    pancetta and asparagus

    fresh cleaned wild ramps[/donotprint]

    Recipe: Halibut Belly with Ramp Vegetable Hash
    10 minutes prep / 10 minutes cook
    Serves 2
    6 oz (for two) halibut belly or cheeks
    12 thin spears of asparagus, chopped to 1/4 inch or less
    2 oz pancetta, cubed
    3 oz fresh cleaned ramps, sliced finely, greens set aside
    1/2 C farro or other grain, cooked
    1/2 C white wine

    In a skillet at medium heat fry the pancetta. When browned, add the asparagus and cook until almost tender. Add the ramp whites, and salt, cook until slightly browned. Add farro and ramp greens, cook until wilted and hot.

    Meanwhile, in a skillet at high heat, fry the salted & peppered halibut belly in a small amount of oil, turning when brown. If sticking, deglaze with white wine, and then flip over.

    Assemble and enjoy!

    Notes
    – You can replace the farro with: wheat berries, wild rice, kamut, barley or other whole grain or omit it entirely
    – You may substitute for the ramps: shallots, spring onions, or leeks
    – If you omit the pancetta, be sure to add some olive or walnut oil

     

  • Red Snapper En Papilotte + Endive, Apple & Red Cabbage Slaw

    Red Snapper En Papilotte + Endive, Apple & Red Cabbage Slaw

    [donotprint]red snapper en papillote with lime & thyme[/donotprint]

    Red Snapper Filets en Papilotte

    1/3 lb snapper filets, as many as needed (1 per person)*
    lime, sliced thinly
    thyme sprigs
    parchment paper
    *great* olive oil (optional)
    salt & pepper

    Begin by patting dry and lightly salting the filets. On a piece of parchment wider than the fish is long and twice as long as the fish is long, place the filet. Layer a few slices of thin lime on the fish, topping with some thyme sprigs and a dash of olive oil if you like. Top with pepper.

    Fold the parchment in half, with the filet sitting flat against the crease of the paper. Fold the corners in, folding down several more times. Fold in the other sides and tuck under to create an enclosure (the fish will steam). Repeat on remaining fish.

    Bake on a sheet (in case of leaking juices) for about 15 minutes at 350-400 degrees. Fish will flake away easily when done.

    *This recipe will work for any fish en papilotte; you may need to adjust cooking time for thicker fish and I think the method lends best to more delicate fish (ie, not salmon)
    [donotprint]
    red cabbage slaw with apples, endive, carrot, lime & red onion[/donotprint]

    Endive, Apple, Red Cabbage Slaw

    serves four

    1/2 small red cabbage, sliced very thinly
    1/2 medium red onion, sliced very thinly
    1 large carrot, shredded
    1/2 or whole apple of choice, cubed
    2 endives, sliced in 1/4 or 1/8 inch short strips (can use radicchio, etc)
    juice of 1 lime
    1 tsp walnut oil (or other mild oil)
    1/2-1tsp ground cumin
    salt

    Using a mandolin (ideally), slice the onion and cabbage. Slice the endives (or radicchio or other chicories), chop the apple and shred the carrot. Whisk the lime juice, cumin, oil and salt to taste. Mix everything together. Keeps well for 1-2 days, but best fresh.

  • Scallops in Fava & Pea Puree, Littleneck Clams on White Beans, Sausage & Chard, Creme Fraiche Pannacotta with Strawberries

    Scallops in Fava & Pea Puree, Littleneck Clams on White Beans, Sausage & Chard, Creme Fraiche Pannacotta with Strawberries

    [donotprint]

    creme fraiche panna cotta with strawberries (sunday suppers at lucques)

    I had occasion to cook last night– a Sunday– and was feeling pretty inspired by a very solid weekend of good eats. Friday night a feast in our back yard, Saturday a hike from our doorstep to the top of twin peaks, down into the mission for a stop at Delfina Pizzeria, an errand at Tartine (here’s a hint: it involved walnut bread, croissants and an eclair) and another at BiRite (which involved this steak) and yet another feast in our back yard.

    There is a huge collection of cookbooks in my living room. You can tell they aren’t used often because they’re behind glass, stacked with ornamental things on top that would have to be moved to use them. I woke up around 9 on Sunday and tip toed into the living room to loot a few, returned to bed and did the most serious reading I’ve probably done since college…and the result, my final paper, if you will–this menu.[/donotprint]

    Scallop in Fava & Pea Puree from Amuse Bouche (slightly altered for scale and for oil content)
    With Vouvray

    Clams with White Beans, Sausage & Chard from Amuse Bouche (altered significantly)
    With Vermentino from Sardegna

    Creme Fraiche Pannacotta with Strawberries (From Sunday Suppers at Lucques — perfect as is but would use more milk/less cream next time)
    with Moscato di Asti